Generators – you either love em or hate em, always provoke lively discussions whenever the topic is mentioned. \u00a0 It isn’t my objective to give an opinion either way on generators simply to point out MY experiences and thoughts.<\/p>\n
Let me start out by saying we have a generator. \u00a0We have had it for almost 4 years. \u00a0We have used it twice. \u00a0If nothing else it provides a good backup “just in case” and is reassurance and peace of mind if all else fails.<\/p>\n
There are many types of generators with various outputs on the market and getting the right one can be tricky. \u00a0There are several factors to be considered when choosing a generator:-<\/p>\n
Portable or fixed,\u00a0Petrol or gas,\u00a0Pure sine or modified sine,\u00a0Output, weight, size and noise and of course\u00a0Price.<\/p>\n
Portable or Fixed<\/strong> – this is largely dictated by available space and depth of wallet. \u00a0There are benefits to both. \u00a0Fixed are normally electric starting, out of sight and can run from either the existing vehicle fuel tank or a separate tank and are securely fixed to the Motorhome. \u00a0On the downside they are also the most expensive. \u00a0Typically \u00a33 to 4000.<\/p>\n Portable generators can be located in any available cupboard\/locker and they have their own built in fuel tank. \u00a0They are vulnerable to theft as they are outside the camper when in use – but they are much cheaper – typically between \u00a3200 to \u00a31000.<\/p>\n Petrol or Gas<\/strong> – This really is a matter of choice as most generators, fixed or portable can be purchased as petrol, diesel or LPG or converted afterwards. \u00a0 \u00a0Many folks claim that running on LPG is quieter than petrol. \u00a0Maybe they are right but the difference is minimal. I certainly would need to think of other benefits before deciding to invest in converting to run on LPG if only noise was the benefit.<\/p>\n Pure sine or modified sine<\/strong> – The decision here is more of what you expect your generator to do. \u00a0In very simple terms the difference between the two is that pure sine wave generators smooth out any fluctuations in current that is found in modified sine. \u00a0Not very technical I know and I’m sure there are better qualified people than me that can come along and get into detail. \u00a0 If you simply wish to charge the batteries then modified sine will do the job. \u00a0Only older appliances such as microwaves may give you problems and if this is the case then a\u00a330-40 will buy a new microwave and cost much less than the difference between modified or pure sine wave generators. \u00a0 We have a pure sine generator yet have a modified sine Inverter and I always charge my laptop, phone, camera batteries off the inverter. \u00a0I think in this day and age most modern appliances can tolerate variations in voltage without a problem.<\/p>\n Output, weight and size<\/strong> – The most important considerations. \u00a0At the outset you must have a good idea of what you want to use your generator for. \u00a0Here are a few points to consider. \u00a0When you start up your generator and switch it on, the first thing that happens in most cases is the fridge-freezer switches over from gas to 240volts. \u00a0The on-board charger kicks in and starts to re-charge your batteries at maximum power. \u00a0You need to understand how much power these items take, particularly at start-up. \u00a0On start-up most appliances take much more power than their stated running requirements so take this into account. \u00a0 Then you need to add on the power required for each item of equipment you intend to use.<\/p>\n Here are my requirements as an example:<\/p>\n Fridge\/Freezer \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 200w<\/p>\n Built in charger \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 450w<\/p>\n 30amp Pro Digital charger \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0300w<\/p>\n 50amp Pro Digital charger \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0425w<\/p>\n Total minimum Output required \u00a01375w<\/p>\n Now we have a 1600W generator so have a little flexibility and we can also control either the fridge, or Pro Digital chargers. \u00a0So by turning off the chargers we could if needed boil a kettle or run our heating system on 1kw setting.<\/p>\n Output<\/strong> is generally related to weight so the greater the output the heavier the generator so make sure you have the available payload. \u00a0If payload is an issue then look at ways to minimise the required load – turn the fridge over to gas and don’t try to boil a kettle: switch off non essential 12 volt appliances as they will fool the charger into thinking the batteries are more depleted than they are.<\/p>\n Size<\/strong> – always measure up both the available space and dimensions of any generator you are thinking of buying. \u00a0One friend of ours has to keep their genny in the shower cubicle as it won’t fit in any locker – and its diesel – and it smells – and they have to place a mat on the floor to stop it staining the shower tray.<\/p>\n Price<\/strong> is a no brainer but bear in mind that generator prices can and do vary tremendously. \u00a0Even with similar models prices can vary by several hundred pounds. \u00a0For example a Honda 20EUi can be found new at around \u00a3750 on the internet or \u00a31100 at many garden centres. \u00a0Our Kipor 2000 pure sine cost just over \u00a3275. \u00a0I don’t want to get into an argument over reliability and noise levels as its all subjective and controversial. \u00a0 If you intend to use your genny every day then clearly the better the quality the more longer its likely to last. \u00a0However if like us you use it very infrequently then its more cost effective to go for a cheaper model.<\/p>\n Noise<\/strong> – most generator manufacturers publish a decibel rating for their generators and its usually quoted at a 7 mtr distance away from the unit. \u00a0many of the quality manufacturers also quote a minimum load output level. \u00a0Occasionally some dealers misquote this by quoting the noise level at minimum load to favour the one they want to sell you. \u00a0All generators are noisy but there are ways to minimise the noise level in say a crowded area where you may want to keep the neighbours happy. \u00a0The biggest effect on a noise level is load. \u00a0For example our Kipor will almost double in noise level if we switch on all the chargers or boil a kettle. \u00a0Many reputable generators have a throttle control that controls the speed of the engine depending on load. \u00a0(usually called auto throttle) these devices do make a big difference. \u00a0Cheap generators without throttle control will run at maximum revolutions at all loads and are therefore noisier. \u00a0 Suitcase type generators are quieter than open frame models.<\/p>\n In my experience generators are not used very often and form part of the “kit” we all carry as its kinda expected. \u00a0I know folks who carry a 30kg generator yet only ever stay at sites with EHU yet they know they exceed their maximum payload. \u00a0When generators are used they are not always used to best advantage. \u00a0For example – most folk buy a generator as a method of re-charging their batteries when camping “off-line”. \u00a0One problem here is that vehicle manufacturers tend to fit 14 to 18 amp chargers and even these are not always digital. \u00a0 Just do the maths – 1x 110ah battery has to supply power for lights, water pump, heating unit, small inverter for phone charging and TV etc. and in winter, excluding LED bulbs, it is easy to use 40 plus amps in a 24hr period. \u00a0To fully re-charge the battery will take up to 3 hrs as the charger will reduce output gradually as the battery voltage raises – and you need to do that every day you are off-line.<\/p>\n Answers<\/strong> – well one answer would be to boost your charge rate. \u00a0Basic chargers can cost from as little as \u00a315 to over \u00a3500 depending on how deep your pockets are. \u00a0The advantage is that by recharging at say 45amps ( 18 + 30) then it reduces your generator running time by almost 2hrs. \u00a0A big saving. \u00a0We had a total charging capacity of 110amps and if there was no sun or light, could re-charge our batteries every three days or so – all 650ah, \u00a0sufficiently in around an hour or so.<\/p>\n TIP:<\/strong> \u00a0Many generators will also have a 12 volt output that will allow you to charge your leisure batteries at around 8 amps \u00a0– if you rely totally on the on-board charger to replenish your batteries then by using this 12 volt outlet you can increase your charging rate by a further 8 amps during the same operation thus reducing the time you need to run the generator.<\/p>\n Another would be to turn off the fridge or switch to gas only before starting the genny as an hour or two without power would not affect the fridge temperature much, particularly in winter.\u00a0 Remember that the fridge will automatically switch to mains electricity as soon as it detects a supply if its AES fridge.<\/p>\n Conclusion:<\/strong> \u00a0Generators can be very useful and have their place in our camping world, but you need to fully understand what you expect it to do and consider if it fits in with your style and they need to be used efficiently. \u00a0An extra battery and an invertor with a supplimentary charger can reduce the running time considerably. \u00a0The best answer though may be to look at ways on conserving power in the first place. \u00a0Converting to Led’s, turning off unnecessary lights, using reading lights instead of roof lights all can seriously reduce your consumption and hence the frequency and time needed to re-charge the batteries.<\/p>\n Just a point on Gas Generators<\/strong><\/p>\n There are two basic types of gas generator around. \u00a0There is the petrol generator with an LPG conversion and there is the pure LPG generator such as the Self Energy EG20. \u00a0The former is a cheaper method of running a petrol genny, giving more flexibility.<\/p>\n The EG20 works quite differently from a petrol\/gas generator mainly because it is usually fitted underneath the body or in a locker or attached to the chassis where practical. \u00a0Its different in that its output is 20amps at 12 volts<\/strong> so no 240 volts. \u00a0If you still want to boil a kettle or charge your phone you will need an inverter. \u00a0The EG20 can run automatically day or night and starts up when its electronics detect a drop in battery voltage or you can operate it on the manual control and only use it when required. \u00a0On automatic it is designed to prevent your battery from getting low in the first place and will keep cutting in and out accordingly. \u00a0 \u00a0The EG20 is much quieter than the petrol equivalent. \u00a0Its not quiet though. \u00a0The EG20 is cheaper than a built in petrol generator but still costs over \u00a32200<\/p>\n For further information see my article on Power Management before making any decision on buying a generator.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Generators – you either love em or hate em, always provoke lively discussions whenever the topic is mentioned. \u00a0 It isn’t my objective to give an opinion either way on generators simply to point out MY experiences and thoughts. 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